The Ottertrail is a 45km, 5-day hike along a spectacular coastal path. It’s one of the most popular trails in South Africa.
Only 12 people are admitted per day. It’s very tricky to get a spot, as it’s always fully booked. For a few weeks, I stalked the reservation system for cancellations and finally got two spots.
Before we started our hike, the rangers gave us a briefing. They focused on Day 4, where we would cross the mighty Bloukrans River. For safety reasons, we should only cross it at low tide and do it as a group.
There are four overnight huts along the way. The huts have running water, but no phone signal and no electricity.
We set off and soon arrived at our first hut, where we met up with our hiking companions: a German couple, Andi and Andrea, and a South African couple, Linda and Gareth. Surprisingly, we were only six people – the other six had cancelled.
Incidentally, Andi and Andrea (“A&A”) were visiting South Africa because they were the official photographers at the legendary Comrades Marathon. We also learned that A&A are expert climbers, certified mountaineering guides and skilled kayakers. All that experience would come in handy very soon!
The first three days were very enjoyable. We had some easy river crossings which we used as test runs for the Bloukrans River. We packed our backpacks into large orange bags and floated them across the water. Easy-peasy! We were feeling more and more optimistic about the ominous Day 4.
Finally, Day 4 arrived. Along with A&A, we planned to cross the Bloukrans River at the evening tide. Confidently, we set out and enjoyed the views on the way:
However, when we arrived at the Bloukrans River, our confidence waned:
We were supposed to take the easy slipway route and land on a beach (red arrow in the pic below), but the sea was too rough. The other option was to swim to a cave and climb up the cliffs (yellow arrow).
We waited for the low tide. However, around 5pm, things weren’t much better: although the water level was slightly lower, the waves were still crashing against the rocks.
At the top of the cliff, there was a very tempting escape route where you could call the ranger to pick you up. This was becoming my favourite option.
At 5.15pm, we had to decide as it was close to sunset. A&A opted for the “Yellow Arrow” crossing. After some hesitation, we decided to join them.
Andi took the lead, Kai and I followed, and Andrea was the rear guard.
We swam across with our orange bags, battling against the waves. Andi arrived at the other side and nimbly climbed up the rocks. One by one, he pulled us out of the water along with our bags.
On the cliff, A&A and Kai formed a human chain and passed the backpacks up to a small ledge. Then, we climbed up to the ledge and changed into our hiking clothes. We also put on our headlamps, as it was now dark. I noticed that my orange bag was torn and that half my backpack was drenched. I also noticed that my whole body was shaking uncontrollably from all the drama.
However, it wasn’t over yet: we still had two hours to go in the dark. Unfortunately, the first few hundred meters were a very tricky climb along steep cliffs. There were ropes, which I clung to for dear life. Andi patiently guided me and Andrea kept on reassuring me from behind. I was so grateful!
Soon, we were back on the usual trail and I started to feel better.
Until the storm came. It was a first-class storm, with thunder and lightning and torrential rain.
We were definitely getting our money’s worth out of this hike!
Finally, we arrived at the hut. Thankful for the dry shelter, we made some hot tea and cooked our noodles before we crawled into our cosy sleeping bags. By some miracle, my sleeping bag and my night clothes had survived the ordeal nice and dry. I was so happy!
The next day, we enjoyed a sunny last hike. The perfect ending!
In two weeks, we will be doing a half-marathon in Zermatt. And guess who will be the official race photographers? Andi & Andrea!
It’s a small world!
******
I’m joining Runs with Pugs and The Running Teacher’s link-up, Tuesday Topics. I’m also joining Runner’s Roundup with Mile By Mile, Coach Debbie Runs, Confessions of a Mother Runner and Runs with Pugs.
My goodness what a dramatic journey! But that’s nature for you, you have to have respect for it. I love the little huts, they look supercozy.
PS: I hadn’t realized otters were that big, that paw print is huge! Did you see any on your path?
Exactly, Riitta! It was a healthy experience to be exposed to the elements of nature. Our lives are so fragile without all the modern conveniences.
The huts were amazing! We made a fire outside on most nights which added to the cosiness.
YES! Andi and Andrea saw two otters and got amazing photographs of them playing in the water (they had a professional camera with them). The otters looked quite big on the photos!
Oh, liebe Catrina, das war ja Abenteuer pur !! Kann man zufrieden sein, dass ihr alle wieder glücklich gelandet seid !! Wieder wunderschöne Bilder von einer herrlichen Natur, aber – wie man liest – auch nicht gerade ungefährlich.
Ihr habt das Abenteuer gerockt, Glückwunsch – und könnt euch schon auf ein Wiedersehen in Zermatt freuen, dort geht dann die Post ab !!
Vielleicht bist du jetzt schon wieder in deiner Heimat, ist die Anpassung schwer ?
Liebe Grüße von der sonnigen Ostsee
Wir waren sehr froh, als wir am Tag 4 endlich bei der Hütte waren. Aber irgendwie hat es diese spannende Flussüberquerung einfach gebraucht, sonst wäre es womöglich noch zu langweilig geworden! 🙂
Wir hoffen, dass der Lauf in Zermatt wirklich stattfindet. In den letzten paar Tagen waren da grosse Unwetter, so dass Zermatt sogar von der Umwelt abgeschnitten war. Noch haben wir nichts gehört, also hoffen wir, dass alles wie geplant läuft.
Unser Abflug ist heute Nachmittag! Wir freuen uns auf die wärmeren Temperaturen und natürlich auf Familie und Freunde. Jetzt nur noch ein bisschen packen, was ich sehr ungern mache… 🙂
Geniesse die Ostsee, liebe Margitta!
OMG that sounds so hard and so scary! And a storm on top of everything else. I’m very impressed. But the views look like they’re all worth it, or?
The views were amazing, Susanne! Also just being in nature, completely detached from the rest of the world was a nice experience. That river crossing added some spice, though! 😉
Woah. That was a spectacular adventure. Day 4 sounded actually like a lot of fun. The only thing that would have bugged me would have been the torn bag & wet gear! Luckily your bag & clothing were still dry. Did you have internal waterproof bags as well?
What a chance to have met A&A! Fantastic. Are you serious they are going to that Zermatt HM? That is crazy!
Great fun on that 5 day hike. One of your best I would say!😅💦
Yes! The Ottertrail was on of our best hikes ever. And you would have thoroughly enjoyed day 4, Yves!
I somehow think that you have a great set of survival skills which would have been very useful to the group!
Good question! Yes, the sleeping bag was in a waterproof bag and my sleeping clothes were right next to it, which somehow protected them. It’s quite amazing how important dry clothes can be!
Imagine, Zermatt was cancelled a few days ago! They had two severe storms with floods and mudslides. I had a major fight with the hotel to reimburse our money… we finally agreed on half-half, which is better than nothing, I guess. For Saturday, I found an interesting 10k with 500m of elevation as a replacement. It’s quite a small event – about 100 people. Let’s see how that will work out.
Oh Sorry to hear about Zermatt being hit with storms. Climate change related? I guess the HM is not important after floods & mudslides.
I guess the hotel needs to cover their costs too. Was there a cancellation policy stated? Is it normal in Switzerland to not be able to cancel? Glad you got something back.
Good luck on your 10km with lots of elevation!.
Yes – the warmer weather is bringing a series of new problems. The mountains seem to be less “stable” without the permanent ice and the excessive rainfalls may be a new feature, too.
The hotel’s policy was a free cancellation until 21 days before the stay. So they were right to insist on our payment. My running buddy had the same problem with her hotel. I suggested that they keep our money and transfer the booking to next year, but they didn’t want that. Zermatt gets a LOT of tourists (overtourism), so I don’t fear for them. 🙂
Thanks, Yves!
I hope your blog will be back up and running soon!
I can imagine it was an amazing experience!! I hope to do some good hikes soon and have a 19k hike (really it’s a trail running event but you can walk the 19k if you want) planned in September but nothing as advanced as what you do!
I’m doing some restructuring with the blog and have also been super busy lately (been back in Sweden seeing family and a lot of other things), but I hope to have it back up later this week!
Oh, but that trail race/hike sounds lovely! With your injury and bone condition, hiking is a great option!
I can imagine how busy you are when you’re back in Sweden with family – we just returned to Switzerland today and things are already getting super-busy.
I’m looking forward to seeing the new look of your blog!
I thought your idea of keeping the reservation until next year was a win/win. I guess they don’t want the bother.
I am impressed they gave you any money back when it was too late to cancel, even though it was due to unusual circumstances! Good for you to try & being successful. Well done in convincing them to split the cost at least!🤚
Liebe Catrina,
das war ja wirklich eine glückliche Fügung, dass ihr A&A getroffen habt! Und dass ihr alle so fit seid, dass diese Route machbar war!
Da sieht man mal wieder, dass die Distanzen genau gar nichts über den Schwierigkeitsgrad einer Wanderung aussagen – die wirken ja erst mal ganz harmlos! Wie war denn die Wegbeschaffenheit insgesamt? Das sieht ja alles sehr steinig, felsig, steil aus.
Die Aussichten sind aber diese ganzen Mühen sowas von wert. Unglaublich schön! 😀
Voll! Wir hätten diese Flussüberquerung niemals ohne A&A gemacht – ich hätte mich nie und nimmer getraut, schon gar nicht mit der Kletterei im Halbdunkeln. A&As Entschlossenheit und Mut waren sehr inspirierend!
Die Trails waren sonst sehr machbar – vielleicht ab und zu ein Baum, der im Weg lag. Kai hatte die Route zum Glück auf seine Garmin geladen, das ersparte uns manche Verirrungen.
Du wärst beim Schwimmeinsatz ganz vorne dabei gewesen, liebe Doris. Bestimmt hättest du noch eine Zusatzschlaufe gemacht, damit du auf deinen 10. Tausender kommst! 🙂
Liebe Catrina,
was für ein Abenteuer! Anfangs war meine spontane Reaktion “Oh wow, das könnte ich mir auch vorstellen” Und die Hütten von Tag 3, das ist ja eine spektakuläre Lage!
Aber dann diese Bloukrans River- Querung….! Oh mein Gott, nichts für mich, da wäre die Escape Route meine Option gewesen. Gottseidank seid ihr da doch heil herübergekommen und hattet auch unterwegs nette Begleiter.
Ich denke, an dieses Abenteuer werdet ihr noch lange zurückdenken, oder?
Wie witzig, dass ihr euch dann in Zermatt gleich wiederseht!
Dann schon einmal gute Heimreise, und bis in Kürze in CH!
Liebe Grüße aus dem schwül-heißen Rheinland
Elke
Liebe Elke
Bis auf die Flussüberquerung ist der Ottertrail sehr machbar. Ich habe im Vorfeld eine Bekannte gefragt, wie denn der Ottertrail ist, und sie sagte “beautiful and quite easy”. Nachdem wir zurückkamen, fragte ich sie spezifisch nach der Bloukrans Durchquerung. Da stellte es sich heraus, dass sie die Escape Route genommen hat (was ich auch verstehen kann!).
Dieses Erlebnis werden wir so schnell nicht vergessen – im Nachhinein war es sehr cool.
Heute Nachmittag geht’s ab nach Zürich!
Liebe Grüsse aus dem sonnigen Cape Town bei 18°C!
I am so impressed that you swam across the river and climbed those rocks with waves crashing around you. I think I would have called the ranger! This is definitely one for the books and a trip you’ll remember forever.
What happened to Linda and Gareth, did they decide not to continue on the hike with your group? How fun it will be to see Andrea and Andi when you run the half in Zermatt!
I was so scared, Debbie! But I was glad that Andi and Andrea inspired us to follow them – I would have definitely taken the escape route otherwise!
Good question! Linda and Gareth decided to go alone (!). They started at 2am in the morning, hiked through the night and planned to take the early morning low tide. We met them in the evening after we arrived. We asked them about their river crossing experience – they were less fit than us and we were a bit worried about them. Strangely, their experience didn’t match ours at all. Who knows, maybe they took the escape route after all?
I’m looking forward to seeing A&A again!!
Absolutely incredible little adventure! I hadn’t heard of this trail before. Kudos on stalking the list and figuring out a way to get on, and what a stroke of luck you got to tag along with A&A.
I had a big smile on my face reading this post as you described the waiting for better conditions on the river crossing and then the struggle of getting across on the ‘escape’ route. That’s proper adventure, and I bet you were all so chuffed once you made it back through the storm into shelter and could enjoy some food and hot drinks!
This looks like it was an incredible time, I’m so envious!
Good luck for Zermatt and yes, totally a small world when things like this happen!
We were very chuffed, Sean! I would have regretted taking the escape route – it’s so much better when you overcome your worst fears and just simply go for it.
By the way, this trail is also a race! It’s in October and yes, the river crossing is included. They have a rope across the river so that the runners can hold on to it, and the race is timed in a way that most runners can catch the low tide (and hopefully less waves than we had).
This would be right up your street – I think you will need to add the Ottertrail Race to your bucket list. 🙂
I’m looking forward to Zermatt! All uphill, so it’s great strength training.
Holy moly!
This sounds amazing and terrifying all at once! While I’ve camped and I’ve hiked, I’ve never done both together. I would have 100% been opting for the ranger pickup. That seems like the safest option.
You do the coolest things and I love reading about it!
You and me both, Jenn! That ranger pickup option sounded so much safer!
Without A&A’s determination, I would have never ventured into the water. In hindsight, it was good that I had a bit of peer pressure, it moved me to do stuff I usually wouldn’t. 🙂
Whew! I was biting my nails in suspense as you got closer and closer to the river. I knew you would make it but…so much drama. And so much fun! What a neat experience!
I think it’s been a long time since I was so scared, Birchie. But it was a nice feeling when we safely in the hut, drinking our hot tea.
I love to read about how adventurous you all are! Nothing holds you 2 back!
With a little (big) help from A&A!
Liebe Catrina,
wie schön, dass Du diesmal zum Ende keine Fragen stellst, wie etwas was war Dein größtes Hiking-Abenteuer oder wäre das was für Dich.
Oh ne, das wäre mir doch eine Nummer zu heftig gewesen. Eine krasse Nummer und ich bin froh, dass Ihr ohne Blessuren davon gekommen seit. Was für ein Abenteuer!
Liebe Grüße
Volker, der aber immerhin schon einmal durch hüfthohes Wasser waten mußte 😉
https://deichlaeufer.wordpress.com/2017/05/22/der-sache-auf-den-grund-gehen/
Oh, du bist durchs Wattenmeer gewatet, lieber Volker! Das wollte ich schon immer mal machen. Toll!!
Ha, nein, keine blöden Fragen diesmal, der Text war schon überlang genug. Und ich wäre ja selbst auch nie ins Wasser, hätten wir nicht den positiven Gruppendruck von A&A gehabt! 🙂
Ich hoffe, dass du aber weiterhin in andere Gewässer watest und schwimmst – ich bin sicher, du wirst uns bald wieder ein Bornhorstersee-Update geben!
Oh, Catrina, this was a bit of a nail-biter! I have an adventurous spirit, but this would take me well out of my comfort bubble (the swimming aspect, that is). How fortunate to have the A & A team to guide you and share their expertise…and you’ll get to see them again!
It was very much outside my comfort zone, too, Kim! It was good that A&A were so fearless. I asked them later on how many “big” river crossings they had done, and this was actually the first one for them too!
I was even more impressed!
WOW!!!!!! WHAT AN ADVENTURE. This is awesome, all of it. The fact that you hiked with strangers (now, new friends) and had the river crossing adventure. Plus, it looks beautiful! This is a hike you won’t forget.
That’s a good point with the strangers-new friends thing. I remember seeing their entry in the registration book and that they only carried backpacks of 8kg each (we had 12kg each). I thought to myself “these guys must know what they’re doing”. And they did! They were true hiking experts.
We will definitely not forget this hike!
Superstark! Ich hab nach deiner Strava Meldung auf die Bilder und die unbekannten vier Tage gewartet, klasse gemacht, ein echter Abenteuermarsch. Vor allem sehr cool dass ihr dann eine so kleine Gruppe wart und dann gemeinsam die harte Route gewählt habt.
Ich wäre glatt mitgekommen 🙂
Tolle Bilder, toller Bericht!
Und jetzt gute Vorbereitung auf den HM, auch darauf bin ich gespannt, du bist wieder fit 🙂
Liebe Grüße, Oliver
Das hätte dir Spass gemacht!! Vor allem bei der Flussüberquerung wärst du vorne mit dabei gewesen. Etwas, was dich auch beeindruckt hätte, war die minimalistische Ausrüstung von A&A. Sie trugen die Hälfte des Zeugs, das wir rumschleppten (trotz Andis schwerer Kameraausrüstung!) und sie hatten trotzdem immer alles dabei.
Wir sind jetzt voll motiviert, unsere Wanderausüstung weiter zu minimalisieren / optimieren.
Danke dir! Hoffentlich geht’s weiter so!
Mönsch, liebe Catrina,
das liest sich wieder so schön und spannend … und wieder einmal ein tolles Abenteuer ohne mich! Sympathisch ist mir die minimalistische Ausrüstung von A & A. Das wäre wohl in meinem Sinne gewesen! 😆 Danke für die vielen tollen Bilder!!! 🙂 Vieles kann man dadurch (besser) nachvollziehen!
Von wegen dumme Fragen! – Hiking-Abenteuer in dieser Form hatte ich nämlich noch nicht, auch wenn ein 103-km-Marsch dabei ist und auch eine Mehrtagestour auf dem Thüringer Rennsteig … aber mitgemacht hätte ich sofort! 😉
Die Etappen vor der großen Flußquerung hören sich ja fast schon chillig an und waren dann doch nur der Auftakt und ein kleiner Vorgeschmack auf das eigentliche Abenteuer.! Schön, dass ihr A & A getroffen hattet. So ist es ein runderes Abenteuer als ohne diese Flußquerung. In meinem jugendlichen Leichtsinn hätte ich es auf jeden Fall durchziehen wollen, aber das Klettern im Dunkeln und dann das Gewitter waren ja nicht ohne! – Toll, dass dein Schlafsack und das Nachtzeug trocken geblieben waren!
Lebt euch gut in der Schweiz ein und dann viel Erfolg beim 1. WK dort!
Liebe Grüße Manfred
Lieber Manfred
Auf JEDEN FALL hätte dir dieses Abenteuer gefallen!
Du hast ja einen ähnlichen Erfahrungsschatz wie A&A. Mit ihnen zusammen hättest du die Fluss-Wellengang-Analyse gemacht und hättest dich gleich nach Andi (oder vor ihm?) in die Fluten gestürzt. Als guter Kletterer wärst du bei der Menschenkette an der Felswand sehr nützlich gewesen.
Bei der Ausrüstung haben wir noch sehr viel Minimierungspotenzial. Alles, von der Zahnpasta bis zur Kochausrüstung kann noch optimiert werden. Wir haben viel von A&A gelernt!
Das südafrikanische Ehepaar, das noch dabei war, hatte gar kein Essen mitgetragen, sondern ihre Mahlzeiten in Auftrag gegeben (!). Jeden Abend kam ein Typ, der ihr Essen zur Hütte brachte. Am nächsten Morgen kam er, um die leeren Behälter wieder abzuholen (es gab bei den Hütten jeweils Escape Routes, die der Lieferservice dafür benutzte). An einem Morgen beschwerten sie sich beim Kurier, dass der Wein vom Vorabend nicht kühl genug war… Was für eine andere Welt!
Danke dir! Wir leben uns hier schnell ein – es ist schön, wieder hier zu sein!!
Liebe Grüsse aus dem sonnig-wolkigen Zürich!
Wie jetzt, liebe Catrina,
Essen an die Hütte, nicht mal während einer solchen Tour auf den Wein verzichten und dann auch noch über die Temperatur des Weines klagen. Das ist definitiv eine andere Welt, aber ich bin da eh anders gestrickt, hab bei einer ‘Hütten’-Übernachtung mit der Verwandtschaft wegen Platzmangels auf dem Boden geschlafen. – War denn dieses Ehepaar immer mit euch unterwegs, oder sind sie (z. T.) schneller oder langsamer gewesen?
Aus dem sonnig heißen Darmstadt liebe Grüße Manfred
Krass, nicht wahr? Dann hat der Kurier für den nächsten Abend Eiswürfel organisiert, die aber geschmolzen sind weil sie viel später als gedacht bei der Hütte ankamen… *seufz*.
Sie waren nicht so fit wie unsere 4-er Gruppe. Die Flussüberquerung haben sie angeblich alleine gemacht….aber das haben wir ihnen nicht so recht abnehmen können. 🙂
Liebe Grüsse zurück! Hier wird’s auch langsam wärmer.
Wow! What an adventure! I would have cried if this were me.
I nearly cried, too. But you would have done better than you think, Zenaida!
Oh my goodness! What a hike. Thank goodness you were with A & A and they had some experience. Do you know what happened to the other couple? You were so brave crossing that river. I’m afraid I would have had to take the escape option.
We were so grateful to have A&A as tour guides! The other couple hiked through the night and took the morning tide crossing. We are not quite sure how they did that… our guess is that they took the escape route.
I was so close to taking the escape route option!
OMG, you are so adventurous! Maybe the others who dropped out heard about that crossing! I would be so scared.
What a great coincidence about your fellow hikers — I wonder if you’ll be able to find them at the race?
Ha, that’s what we thought too. The combination of the late low tide with the early sunset was very challenging. Probably people noticed that after they booked and then cancelled. 🤔
For sure we will find them. 😊 We probably meet them the night before.
Crossing a river on foot & swimming would be such a rush! There’s something thrilling about feeling the cold water against your legs and the uneven riverbed under your feet. You get this mix of adventure and challenge, especially when the current’s a bit strong. Every step is an effort, and you’re constantly finding your balance, which keeps you on your toes. Plus, the sound of the water rushing by and the splash with every step just amps up the excitement. By the time you reach the other side, you feel like you’ve conquered something big. It’s pure, exhilarating fun! Congrats for the successful crossing. Now you are experienced River crossers.😅💦
The way you describe a river crossing is spot on! How many river crossings have you done, Yves?
This was our first and it felt very scary – but at the same time also very exciting, especially when it was over.
An additional factor was the sunset – it added some time pressure, which I think was a good thing. Who knows how long we would have stood at the shore, hesitating?
It was a very, very cool experience!
River
River crossing is common in the backcountry. I don’t know how many I have done though. Lots! 😅💦
It can be tricky when you have darkness looming though. You want to cross carefully of course.
The one you did also was especially tricky because the ocean was likely pushing water up the river so there were currents from both up & down the river!
Congrats on tackling that first crossing. 🤚💦💦💦
Ha, I knew it, you’re an expert!
Thanks! 🙂
Whoa!!!!!! Quite an adventure. It’s all really great. The fact that you had the river crossing adventure and hiked alongside strangers who are now your new friends. It also has a stunning appearance! This hike is one you won’t soon forget.
It was absolutely fabulous! It was quite a bonding experience. If you ever make it to South Africa, you will really need to check out this hike – I’m sure you would enjoy it!
That was quite the adventure, Catrina! How serendipitous that you met A&A and that they will be your photographers for the race in Zermatt. I love living vicariously through you!
“Serendipitous”! That was the word I was looking for. Thanks, Wendy!
I know that you would have joined us on that river crossing. This was just up your street!
Oh wow. You guys are badasses. This sounds beautiful, thrilling and terrifying all at the same time!
It was such an adventure, San!
That was such a nail biter reading this, Catrina. I can’t even imagine how intense this must have been in real. I don’t know if I would have made it, due to my lack of swimming expertise. An adrenaline rush does pretty amazing things though. I would like to have tried.
Oh, you would have managed this crossing really well, Carl! I’m not much of a swimmer, but I felt that this stretch was doable. And I could hang on to the orange bag with my backpack, it was like a floatie.
Your knowledge of nature and knowing how to live without all the “fancy stuff” would have been useful for us, too!
Ah, I loved the Otter trail! I was lucky enough to cross the Bloukrans in ankle deep water, and we played cricket in that little gully you could not access, at the red arrow!
Aaaah, you did the Ottertrail, Birdie!! We saw people doing it in ankle-deep water on YouTube and hence we were expecting that for our crossing, too. What time of the year did you do it?
I did it in April, almost 20 years ago!
Congratulations! Taking part in such an event is something special. I also like to run, but it is not yet that advanced for me.
Thank you! It was a nice event. I’m glad we were only hiking it and not running it. Having said that, there is a trail run version of this tour!